Thursday, May 15, 2008

I Love to Cook

I have a passion for cooking and I do most of the cooking at home. When I prepare a meal I may ask my wife what type of mushrooms she prefers with her Risotto. When it’s her turn to cook she usually asks, “Do you want a Rotisserie Chicken from Piggly Wiggly or Krogers?” Oh well, I guess having different interests is what has kept our marriage alive for forty six years.

A few years ago I lived my dream by attending a one week cooking class at Toscana Saporita, a cooking school in the Tuscany Region of Italy. The school is run by Sandra Lotti, a very attractive Northern Italian woman whose blood pressure spikes off the charts when she is questioned about French cooking. Sandra is convinced that Catherine De Medici gave all Italian recipes to the French and they later claimed them as their own. The class was everything I had hoped it would be and I learned a lot about Tuscany style cooking. A few years later I attended an advanced class and a year after that I returned as an intern. The work was hard but the rewards are great.

At my lectures I promised to post some of my favorite recipes to this site. Here is the first in a series. This is Sandra’s version of Lasagna Bolognese which is Lasagna Northern Italian style. In the United States we are familiar with Lasagna that is laced with Ricotta Cheese and Mozzarella; two ingredients that aren’t used very much in Northern Italian cooking. Instead, they use a very rich meat sauce called Ragu Bolognese and a white creamy sauce called Besciamella Sauce. Notice I didn’t say Béchamel as the French pronounce it. If I did I’m sure Sandra would find me and have me killed.

I made this for my family when I returned from Toscana Saporita and they loved it. I couldn’t convince them that the Lasagna did not have Ricotta Cheese. Don’t be afraid to try it. It takes a little time but it can be prepared in steps. For example, the Soffritto, which is the foundation of the Bolognese Sauce can be prepared and stored in a container in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks or it can be frozen. As a matter of fact I wait for a rainy day and make the entire Bolognese Sauce and then freeze it. If you have time to make the homemade pasta, go for it. It’s wonderful. If not, use the No-Boil Lasagna strips which are becoming very popular today. I have included in the recipe steps for doing both. Try it. You will love it and let me know how it turned out.

LASAGNA WITH MEAT SAUCE
BOLOGNESE SAUCE

2 CUPS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 MEDIUM CARROTS, DICED
2 STALKS CELERY, DICED
2 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED
2 LEAVES OF BASIL
1 TEASPOON FRESH THYME
1/2 TEASPOON ROSEMARY
2 LEAVES OF SAGE
1 BAY LEAF
1 CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED
2 POUNDS GROUND BEEF
2 POUNDS GROUND PORK
1 CUP WHITE OR RED WINE
SALT AND PEPPER TO TASTE
1/4 TEASPOON NUTMEG, FRESHLY GRATED
3 POUNDS PEELED TOMATOES, SQUEEZED BY HAND
1 QUART WHOLE MILK
2 TABLESPOONS OF TOMATO PASTE (OPTIONAL)

POUR THE OIL IN A LARGE HEAVY GAUGE POT. MAKE A SOFFRITTO WITH THE DICED VEGETABLES AND HERBS FOR 10 TO 15 MINUTES, STIRRING FREQUENTLY. WHEN VEGETABLES ARE SOFT, REDUCED AND YOU SEE THE OIL BUBBLING, THE SOFFRITTO IS READY
ADD THE GROUND BEEF AND THE PORK, COOK OVER MEDIUM/HIGH HEAT FOR 15 MINUTES, STIRRING FREQUENTLY UNTIL THE MEAT IS ROASTED AND INFUSED WITH THE FLAVOR OF THE VEGETABLES
POUR IN THE WINE AND LET IT EVAPORATE
ADD TOMATO PASTE AND STIR
BLEND IN THE TOMATOES, LOWER THE FLAME AND CONTINUE TO COOK FOR 1 HOUR, COVERED
POUR IN THE WHOLE MILK AND COOK FOR ANOTHER 20 MINUTES
ADD SALT, NUTMEG AND PEPPER, STIR TO BLEND AND SET ASIDE.

*LEFTOVER SAUCE CAN BE FROZEN
LASAGNA PASTA (OPTIONAL OR USE NO_BOIL PASTA)
FOR BASIC PASTA
1 CUP UNBLEACHED, ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
3/4 CUP SEMOLINA FLOUR
2 EGGS
PINCH OF SALT
1 TABLESPOON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 TABLESPOONS WATER

HEAP THE FLOUR ONTO A FLAT WORK SURFACE AND CREATE A WELL IN THE CENTER
ADD THE EGGS, SALT, OIL AND WATER TO THE WELL
USING A FORK, BEAT THE EGG MIXTURE, INCORPORATING INCREASING AMOUNTS OF THE FLOUR WALL UNTIL A SMOOTH DOUGH HAS BEEN CREATED. KNEAD WITH FLOURED HANDS FOR 5 MINUTES
PINCH OFF A LEMON-SIZED PIECE AND PASS THROUGH THE WIDEST SETTING ON A PASTA MACHINE
DUST LIGHTLY WITH FLOUR, FOLD INTO THIRDS AND PASS THROUGH THE MACHINE THREE TIMES MORE
NARROW THE SETTING ON THE MACHINE, DUST THE SHEET LIGHTLY WITH FLOUR AND PASS THROUGH THE MACHINE
CONTINUE TO PASS THROUGH EVEN MORE NARROW SETTINGS UNTIL YOU HAVE REACHED THE DESIRED THICKNESS (GENERALLY 5 ON THE MACHINE WILL DO IT)
ONCE YOU HAVE REACHED THE DESIRED THICKNESS, CUT THE SHEETS OF DOUGH INTO 6 INCHES BY 6 INCHES LASAGNA.

LASAGNA BESCIAMELLA SAUCE
1 STICK OF UNSALTED BUTTER
1 CUP ALL PURPOSE FLOUR
1 QUART WHOLE MILK, WARM
FRESHLY GRATED NUTMETG (OPTIONAL)
SALT

MELT THE BUTTER IN A SKILLET (A SAUCIER WOULD BE BETTER) AND USING A WHISK GENTLY STIR IN THE FLOUR UNTIL ABSORBED. THIS IS THE ROUX
WHISK UNTIL YOU HAVE A SMOOTH AND THICK CREAMY MIXTURE
ADD THE WARM MILK, POURING IT IN A STEADY STREAM
COOK OVER LOW HEAT, STIRRING CONSTANTLY UNTIL THE SAUCE IS THICK AND CREAMY. IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN ADD SOME FRESHLY GRATED NUTMEG AS WE DO IN TUSCANY.
IF IT IS TOO THICK, WHISK IN ADDITIONAL WARM MILK, IF IT IS TOO THIN, ADD A COUPLE OF TABLESPOONS OF ROUX. (MELTED BUTTER AND FLOUR) SEASON WITH SALT.

ASSEMBLING LASAGNA (HOMEMADE PASTA)
BRING ABOUT 4 QUARTS OF WATER TO A BOIL
ADD SALT AND 1 TABLESPOON OF OLIVE OIL TO PREVENT LASAGNA FROM STICKING.
COOK THE LASAGNA DOUGH IN BATCHES FOR ABOUT 2-3 MINUTES
USING A STRAINER TRANSFER THE COOKED LASAGNA TOA BOWL FILLED WITH COLD WATER TO SHOCK THE TEMPERATURE, THEN DRAIN AND ARRANGE THE LASAGNA ON A CLEAN KITCHEN TOWL TO DRAIN SLIGHTLY
PUT A LAYER OF BESCIAMELLA SAUCE IN A BAKING DISH. ADD A LAYER OF COOKED LASAGNA AND THEN A LAYER OF MEAT SAUCE. SPRINKLE WITH PARMIGIANO REGGIANO. KEEP LAYERING UNTIL YOU HAVE USED ALL YOUR INGREDIENTS. TOP WITH MEAT SAUCE, BESCIAMELLA AND GRATED PARMIGIANO THEN BAKE AT 350F FOR ABOUT 40 MINUTES.
SERVE HOT.


ASSEMBLING LASAGNA NO-BOIL STYLE (USE BARILLA IF POSSIBLE)
ADJUST OVEN RACK TO MIDDLE POSITION
HEAT OVEN TO 425 DEGREES
PLACE PASTA IN A 13 BY 9-INCH BAKING DISH AND COVER WITH VERY HOT WATER; SOAK FOR 5 MINUTES AGITATING OCCASIONALLY TO KEEP FROM STICKING
REMOVE PASTA FROM WATER, PLACE IN SINGLE LAYER ON TOWEL AND PAT DRY
DRY BAKING DISH AND SPRAY WITH NONSTICK COOKING SPRAY
STIR BESCIAMELLA TO RECOMBINE (BE SURE THAT THE SAUCE HAS COOLED FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES AND IS JUST WARM TO THE TOUCH)
MIX 1 1/2 CUP WARM BESCIAMELLA INTO WARM MEAT SAUCE UNTIL THOROUGHLY COMBINED (BE SURE THAT THE SAUCE HAS COOLED FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES AND IS JUST WARM TO THE TOUCH)
DISTRIBUTE BESCIAMELLA ENRICHED BOLOGNESE SAUCE IN BAKING DISH
PLACE 3 SHEETS OF PASTA IN A SINGLE LAYER ON TOP OF THE SAUCE, BUT NOT TOUCHING
SPREAD BESCIAMELLA ENRICHED BOLOGNESE SAUCE EVENLY OVER PASTA, SPREADING SAUCE TO EDGE OF PASTA BUT NOT TO EDGE OF DISH
DRIZZLE A LITTLE BESCIAMELLA SAUCE OVER MEAT SAUCE
SPRINKLE THE LAYER WITH PARMESAN CHEESE
REPEAT THE LAYERING 3 MORE TIMES
COVER TOP WITH BESCIAMELLA SAUCE
SPRINKLE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE
SPRAY LARGE SHEET OF FOIL WITH NONSTICK COOKING SPRAY AND COVER LASAGNA
BAKE UNTIL BUBBLY; ABOUT 30 MINUTES
REMOVE FOIL AND INCREASE HEAT TO 450
CONTINUE TO BAKE UNTIL SURFACE IS SPOTTY BROWN; ABOUT 15 MINUTES
COOL 15 MINUTES; CUT AND SERVE

1 comment:

The Pelican said...

Like Leonardo Da Vinci, you are a Renaissance Man, Carl. Keep the recipes coming. I am going to try this and let you know how it works out.